Gray Ice

Gray Ice is one of our better kept secrets. This is a dark gray exhaust coating with metallic highlights. It is very temperature stable and is based on the Black Satin system. Color stability is very good and maintains a slight sheen even at elevated temperatures. With many customers wanting a different appearance than silver or black, it provides that slightly "different" look and has been very popular when offered by those coaters who have inventoried it.

PHOTOs

We are asking that any applicator of our coatings that wishes, to please send us a photo of any parts they have coated. We will be putting these on display both in our office lobby as well as on a photo gallery on our web site. We will identify the shops by name and location on all of the photos that we display.

Black Satin

Occasionally we get calls regarding rust forming either on or in Black Satin (this can also occur with any coating). Rust can form for several reasons.

The most common is from metallic deposits left behind when water, which is splashed on the part, evaporates and leaves such deposits behind. The surface rust that forms will appear as a thin light brown film or speckles.

However it is more common to see rust forming because the coating is too thin to totally seal the surface. Black Satin is a thin film coating. However, for proper protection a minimum of .001" of coating must be on the part (after curing), to adequately seal the surface. In one case, coatings thinner than .0008", were observed. The appearance was just fine but the coating lacked good corrosion characteristics as it was porous.

The third reason is rust that has started in the substrate and was not removed during initial part preparation/cleaning. This is most common with cast iron parts, where the porosity of the material can allow rust to form deep in the metal. Typically a dip in a rust remover or rust neutralizer is necessary, prior to coating. In severe cases of porosity, even after a through cleaning, it may be necessary to apply a base coat of either Cermakrome or HHBK and then the top coat of choice. This procedure is recommended regardless of the final coating to be applied.

WET SPONGE TESTING

How can one tell if a completely sealed surface has been achieved? A common test for this is called the Wet Sponge Test. While specific equipment is made to do this type of testing, an adequate tester can be made by simply using a continuity tester and a wet sponge attached to one end of the positive or negative electrode. Use a liquid that has an electrolyte or other ingredient that improves conductivity. Note many "Sports" drinks appear to work well. Dab the wet sponge over the coated surface, after curing, with the other electrode attached or touching solidly the back or an uncoated surface of the part. Test in a variety of areas. If any conductivity is seen, porosity exists, indicating that the film is not complete. Be cautious that the liquid does not flow to a conductive or uncoated area as this will show a false reading.

YOU Can Run With The BEST OR Run With The Rest™

Send e-mail to the editor: Leonard Warren